Züri G'schnätzlets
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Thinly-sliced bits of web-logged goodness (as I see it)
from Downtown Switzerland and beyond. |
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Sunday, March 31, 2002
JUST A QUICK NOTE: I'll have to correct all the spelling errors, and make a full report later. There's more to tell. But at internet cafe prices, I think I'll wait. But quickly, to day I took a bus about two and a half hours out of Athens along the coast to the Temple of Poseidon. It's a glorious crumbling affair, bu tit's magnificent. It is easy to see why the ancients chose this site on a cliff jutting out into the Agean to build a temple to the god of the ocean. The root and all the walls are fallen and gone. But there are still the old weathered pillars rising all around. And some kind of pedastal at the back end. I'm not sure if it is meant to be an alter, or if it was the site wehre the statue to Poseidon stood.
Oh and apparantly, despite what I reported yesterday, this sea is the Ageaen (I'll settle on a spelling later). It was on the very cliff where I stood today, that King Ageaes was supposed to have waited and watched for his son Thesis to return from Crete where he had gone to slay the dread Minotaur. When he saw Jason's ship returning, he saw the sails were black which signified that the mission had failed and Thesis had been killed. King Ageaes threw himself into the sea in grief, so he never learned that someone forgot to tell Thesis to change the sails to signify success. Oops. But that's where the sea gets its name. Saturday, March 30, 2002
MORE TO TELL: There's a lot to tell about my day today. I saw the Theater of Dionysius, the Parthenon, and Temple of Hephaestus and the place where the Apostle Paul preached of the Unknown God in the old Roman ruins. But, I'm warm again and ready to roam. So, they'll have to wait until next time. For now, I leave you. I'm here in Athens. I don't know when I'll find another Internet Cafe, or when I'll be home. But I'll post again when I can!
GOODBYE SWISSAIR: A chapter in my life ended today while I was climbing the ancient Parthenian Way to the temples of Athena. The Swissair website which I developed (and which first drew me to Switzerland) went off-line for good. Now if you visit www.swissair.com you'll only see a farewell page. It's a bit emotional for me - but, just a bit. As you know, Swissair stopped flying today too. It's the farewell for the website and the airline. Of course that also means I have no free flight home from Athens! What will I do? I guess I'll take an adventure home - by way of boat and train.
JOHN'S PLACE: My work colleague Katharina recommended a little place called John's Place for a room. I have some rustic accomodations on the top floor of this old apartment turned into a quest house. This certainly isn't the Swissotel, but it has its charm in the old city of Athens. And from my window and balcony I can see the Acropolis hill and the Parthenon itself! There's only one problem. There's no heat (apparantly that's common for lower priced hotels/hostels here). That's why I'm hiding out here. Besides the fact that I thought I could update you, I'm trying to get warm at the internet cafe.
ODE TO A GRECIAN YEARN: I made it! Yesterday, I was able to take the last seat on the 10:40 flight from Zurich to Athens. With delays leaving Zurich, and then delays on the ground in Athens as a trainee tried to bring out the jet-bridge I set foot on Greecian soil about 4:00 local time.
Did you know I studied classical Greek in college for three years? Yep. I did. I can't remember much anymore, but I can read the greek lettering on the toilet door at least. But needless to say, I've long wanted to experience the land of Mt. Olympos, and Homer. I've fantasized of watching the rosy-fingered dawn awake over the thallassa(sea) for myself. (Though considering my love feelings for early days, I might have to settle for the rosy-fingered late morning). And, now here I am. WOW. Thursday, March 28, 2002
I'M OFF TO PACK: I'm sure there's more typo's than usual ... but I'm off to pack. I'll let you know as soon as I made it to Athens...
GO AHEAD ASK MY BLOG: The film I bought from the Czech film maker, Jana Svankmajera, was called Otesanek. (It apparantly is having a little release in America - the English title is Little Otik). It is a rich and beautifully filmed story based on a unique and archetypical Czech fairy tale. The film's about a desperate infertile couple who want to make a baby so bad they adopt a tree stump. Seriously, it's not as silly as it sounds. Anyway, for a glimpse of some things Czeck try to catch the flick. Of course the comparisons to David Lynch are inevitable. After all this movie is basically what would happen if the Twin Peaks Log Lady adopted the Erasurehead baby.
TO PRAGUE, AND BACK AGAIN: It seems that my fine whine about losing my flight benefits and taking one last amazing flight tempted the fates a bit (note the classical grecian theme). I arrived at the gate only to be denied boarding. The flight was full. I did get on the next flight (just barely - but with a bonus last flight upgrade to Business Class) which meant that I only had two nights and one day to enjoy Prague.
I mentioned the Pension Unitas which in communist days was a prison that held Vacl�v Havel. Yes indeed. It was quite strange to follow the signs down to my room past heavy iron doors with peep holes and slots to slide food trays. Though now the doors are brightly painted in rainbow colors to cut down on the dark gloom. I wondered how it would be to sleep in a dungeon. Would my dreams be haunted by the ghosts of tortured prisoners? Turns out my dreams were haunted by the load American back-packers roaming the halls all night. If you're looking for a quite pension then keep looking past the Pension Unitas. Of course I took in the huge grounds of the Prague Castle. It's all very interesting affords a great view of the city. From there I discovered a little gallery run by the collective that includes Jana Svankmajera the Czech David Lynch. It turned out the man and woman in the store when I entered was the film maker and his wife. But being completely ignorant of his work there was really nothing I could say. The gallery itself is attached to the couples house. So I guess it's not too surprising I saw them there. I bought the DVD of Mr. Svankmajera's latest film. So next time I go back to Prague I might have something I want to say to him. I also took a show in Pragues own Magic Lantern tradition. It's recorded music, pantomime, film, and magic all played out by black garbed actors and actresses against a black background. Another time I'll have to say more to do it justice. It was good stuff though. Kind of Mary Poppins, meets a Cirque d'Soleil's Allegra, meets Mullholland Drive's Club Silencio. The best part of Prague? My guide book said it's a great city for just getting lost in. And it IS! The best part was just wandering the little streets and seeing what I could see.
DON'T WORRY MOM: I did finally make it to Prague and I survived to come back. I just haven't told the tale. For the moment I'll have to be very quick. Because, I'm going for one more trip. Yep, I'm leaving tomorrow for Athens Greece! I'll just spend a few days bumming around the classical ruins and take in the sites. I'll try to tread in the steps where the classic gods tread. Oh it's something I've wanted to do for about 24 years now. So I guess it is about time I do it.
Saturday, March 23, 2002
AND THE REAL ANSWER IS: Well in case you're wondering, a very helpful woman at the equivelant railroad travel office at the Main Station told me I can take a ferry from Athens across the Mediteranean Sea to Italy. Then for only 164 Swiss Francs I can take a train for 13 hours to Z�rich. That sounds super cool!
Or, I can take a train up through Greece towards Bucharest, Romania (skirting the more war torn baltic areas), and then connect there to Z�rich. It also sounds like a cool trip - however a bit butt numbing at 50 hours.
EXPLAIN THIS ONE TO ME: After I couldn't get my flight to Prague, I decided to go investigate something. I went to the SBB (Schweizer Bundes Bahn/Swiss Federal Train) travel agency at the airport's train station.
Well. There was a very snotty kid working, and this is what happened ... ME: Can you tell me the price for a train ticket to Athens, with return, and also just from Athens to Zurich. (See, I'm already scheming for one more outbound free flight) SBB (Swiss Boy Bee-atch?): Ehh, don't you want to fly to Athens. ME: Perhaps, but please tell me the price for the train. SBB: It's cheaper to fly. ME: Yes, OK. But I want to take the train. SBB: Well I can't give you a ticket to Athens only to the border. ME: The border of Greece or the border of Switzerland? SBB: It's really complicated, and it's just better you fly. ME: Just give me the the price to the border of Greece so I will have an idea of what it costs. SBB: It's too complicated because I don't know what part of the border you want to go to. ME: I'm going to Athens. Please give me the price for the trip up to the point of the border that is the best connection to Athens. SBB: I don't know what the best connection to Athens is. ME: Ok, just so I have an idea - pick any city on the border of Greece and tell me the price. SBB: Oh, I can't do that. I don't have any schedules here. ME: (genuinly, believe it or not, with no hint of sarcasm) Oh, I'm sorry. Since you work at the railroad travel office I thought you had the train schedules. Which person here handles the schedules and fares? Will you point me to the person that can help me? SBB: The person at the Swissair ticket counter upstairs can help you. I told you to fly. I'm going to live in Switzerland until I can understand and explain experiences like this! (Or until I go mad.)
WHISTLIN' DIXIE: Amtrak decided to put a 'whistle stop' in town. Now, that's not a train station, but it is a platform area where the train will slow down or actually stop if you've phoned ahead to let them know you want to get on. Picayune's whistle stop would provide us with access to the greater world by way of the New Orleans - Chicago line. The Picayune Chamber of Commerce chipped in and erected a little wooden shelter and some flower pots to make the wide place in the tracks more homey. Bursting with pride, the editors of the The Picayune Item placed a front page photo and story of the new whistle stop on nearly every issue . There were pictures of the mayor cutting the ribbon, there were pictures of the first riders, there were pictures of the train pulling up to a stop, there were pictures of Picayune's own Miss Mississippi and the Pride of the Tide Dance Team performing at the stop. There was even a picture of one lone fire baton twirler practicing her routine late into the night by the birght orange glow of the stop's security lights (ok, I made up that last one about the fire baton just for some good homespun imagery).
Soon my English class made the whole thing a running joke. We brought in whistle stop newspaper clippings every day to analyse - cynical 9th graders that we were. It was all one happy lark. Until that last day, when the photo pictured a pile of broken sticks and timber beside the tracks. A few short months after it all began the happy newspaper stories came to an end after a big wind came along and blew down the Picayune Whistle Stop.
HEY, AREN'T YOU SUPPOSED TO BE IN PRAGUE: Yeah, thanks for reminding me. I'm not in the jet-set, I'm on the standby-list-set. More as the story develops ...
YOU KNOW WHAT THEY SAY ABOUT PRIDE: Apparently, it goeth before a fall ...
Yep, like I mentioned before my city is now The Most Beautiful City in the Whole World. My friend Andrei lives in Vancouver which used to be The Most Beautiful City in the Whole World. He emailed to say he's surprised that our announcement got so much press. He doesn't remember that Vancouver made such a big deal out of it when they won the beauty pageant of cities. That may be, but I think people here care a lot about how the outside world sees us. The award just gives good warm fuzzy Swiss feelings all around as it affirms that all over the world people really, really do, like us. Mind you, many Swiss don't seem to care that the world's view is accurate just so long as it's good. Of course everyone, and every country, has their bad days, bad people, and ugly moments (oh just look at any press conferance from Donald Rumsfeld for example). But if you point out something less than positive about Switzerland a typical Swiss response might be a long the lines of "yeah so what - just don't tell anyone". Ok, it makes sense. As the Designing Women pointed out once, some people like to keep their skeletons in the closet. It's just that down yonder in the South where I come from - you tend to just put the skeletons on the front porch. For the last days, there's really been a feature story in the papers nearly every day about Z�rich being The Most Beautiful City in the Whole World. Yet somehow it all reminds me of Picayune, Mississippi sometime around 1983... (cue sentimental, folksy music - and add a fuzzy flashback sequence effect) Friday, March 22, 2002
SLEEPING IN VACLAV HAVEL'S BED: Tomorrow morning I launch my final farewell tour to a place I've long wanted to see - Prague! I can't wait. Here's what my guide book, TimeOut Guide: Prague, has to say about my romantically budget accomodations:
Oh, and in case your wondering, the book adds:
Sh�nes Wochende! Or, should I say dobry den? See you next week with a travel report.
ODE TO FREE FLIGHTS (A FINE WHINE*): Well gang. This is it - the end. No more traveling the world first class, for next to nothing, as an airline employee. This is my last weekend of airline flight benefits. Now, I pause a moment to look back on going to San Franscisco for the day ... L.A. for a night of great unseen TV (Freaks and Geeks) at the Museum of Radio and Televion ... Vancouver for a birthday party ... San Diego for a hair-cut ... Nashville for an Amy Grant concert ... St. Thomas for a romantic Get-a-Way Weekend ... Z�rich for a night of Aera ... no more chooosing a gate at random and jetting off to destinations mysterious and unknown.
<sigh> I loved the jet-set life ... or, at least the standby-listed-set life. * credit due to Slate Magazine for the heading, A Fine Whine Thursday, March 21, 2002
FREE WINONA: In case you're looking for something interesting to read while you try to look busy at work, allow me to suggest this article. It's a little more interesting than you might think an article called Winona Forever would be. Then again those darn articles in LA Weekly usually are (better than you thought they would be).
MANY VOICES, ONE WORLD: There's a great ad campaign that's popped up all over the Most Beautiful City In the Whole World. It features a very simple poster with the slogan Viele Stimmen, Eine Welt (which means Many Voices, One World). The graphics on the poster are photo cut-outs of a hand, a Q-Tip, and an ear. The poster is appearing on the sides of buildings, on telephone polls and even in the trams (note to self: swipe one of the posters off Tram #2 when no-one is looking). There is something eye-catching about the simplicity and almost amateur photoshoppiness of the poster. What do you think?
 Many Voices, One World The first few times I saw the poster I didn't get it. But then I think did (get it). What do you think this poster is about? Send your comments via zurcherart@hotmail.com. Let me know if I can publish your letters. BTW, the poster is advertising an ecumenical fundraising campaign for mission efforts in Bolivia and Bangledesh. You can read about the campaign here at Aktion Brot f�r Alle if your translator or your German is in order. But, I'm not really sure that the message of the poster and the message of the campaign actually go together. Wednesday, March 20, 2002
I JUST READ THIS: Yep, I'm still around. It's been a few days without an update. What can I say? Ok, I have lot's to tell you about me, Me, ME ....
... but not at the moment. Instead look at this dispatch from another American ex-pat. She's in South Africa, and she wrote this great short piece for Newsweek Magazine's international edition. Click on over, and give it a read. I'll be glad you did. Caille Millner's First Person Global. Thursday, March 14, 2002
MY HIGH SCHOOL YEARBOOK DREAM: I GET TO BE PRETTY AND POPULAR: It's official now; I live in the Most Beautiful City in the Whole World. The officials that declare such things have declared that Z�rich is officially the Most Beautiful City in the Whole World with the Highest Lebensqualitat (that's quality of life to you). We beat out the now second-rate Vancouver on the Pacific coast of Canada. Good thing I didn't follow my first ex-pat dream to move to Canada. Who wants to settle for second best?
Hey, it's pretty cool to live in the Most Beautiful City in the Whole World. Of course, it has its downside too. We Z�rchers are faulted even in Switzerland for our hubris. I mean last summer the city even decided to change it's slogan from the apt Z�rich: The Little Big City to the much more uppity Z�rich - Downtown Switzerland. Maybe its only a matter of time before this is also the Most Insufferable City in the Whole World. Actually, I think it's already started. Two days ago a conservative faction in "city hall" began a campaign to tear down the grocery store across the street from the main train station. The reason: the functional building is too ugly for, this, the Most Beautiful City in the Whole World. Monday, March 11, 2002
OH YEAH: My sister told me that Twin Peaks IS a real place called Picayune, and that I did live there for many years. Umm. Could it be? By the way a picayune was an old Spanish coin that was worth about half a penny that circulated around the deep south of the USA when it was Spanish territory. The dictionary defines picayune to mean trivial. But as for me, I know Picayune is a small - but precious - coin in the Old South's purse.
DON'T LET MY HEART BE HURT THIS TIME: Has David Lynch ausflip-ed? You be the judge. Go here, then click the bottom circle called WHAT'S INSIDE. I am LAUGHING. And, that's not a little sorority girl "Hee hee, I'm laughing" laugh, but a guffawing belly LAUGH. So lookee lookee; David Lynch is trying to bring his newest creations to you over the internet - for fee of only $9.95, that's 17.00 Swiss Francs, a month. Should I sign up? I mean I already purchased Bravo TV and a DVD player for the man.
Oh and if you really care, you'll visit http://www.geocities.com/fwwmfight/ because there's almost an hour of Twin Peaks material that is crying for a special DVD release. The scenes were originally cut from the Twin Peaks movie. It's not so much that I need to see the scenes of Norma and Big Ed in his pick-up; it's that I want to know Twin Peaks is a real place - and I can live there.
TALK ABOUT SOME DIXIE CHICKS: I picked another CD up out of the discount bin this weekend. It's a little live recording called An Evening with Loretta Lynn and Special Guest Brenda Lee. It's sure bringing a smile to my face today. I may not be a coal miner's daughter, but I do know it never pays to stray too far from your roots - or the old AM radio over the refrigerator. Well good-bye Joe, we gotta go - me o my o - we gotta go fer de pirogue down the bay-oo ... JAMBALAYA, CRAW FISH PIE AND FILET GUMBO ... Son uma gun, we'll have big fun on the bay-oo! Saturday, March 09, 2002
SPEAKING OF EMAIL: If you're reading out there, drop me a line at zurcherart@hotmail.com - the email address at the top of this page. I realize that Zurcher, which means from, or of, Z�rich is supposed to be spelled with an umlaut or an e. But I thought I'd just leave it out to make things easier on all my non-Swiss/non-Mennonite readers. Danke ihnen f�r ihre verst�ndnis.
THE JAVA-SCRIPT ATE MY BLOG: Well, it was absolutely too nice today to stay home and clean house. So I roamed the city from semi-abusive comic-book store to the new dada house. Along the way Z�rich is Calling found it's way into my bag. It's a kickin' CD of so-called "Z�rich Techno House" mixed by a team of local DJ's including Laby's and Aera's zuppa-geil Peter Lavelle. My body can't stop moving now. And, it features some "vocal stylings" of the divaLUSCIOUS Tram-13 ridin' Eve Gallagher herself. So if you're into this sort of thing get out there and find the disk now even if you have to search the import bin (hell, especially if you have to search the import bin that's what makes it fun). Wednesday, March 06, 2002
????: I'm not really even sure what to say about this link. Let's leave it at: Papa Toony, we got a loony! Tuesday, March 05, 2002
AND WHAT ABOUT PARADISE ISLAND: Did you miss it? Over the weekend the world changed. The Swiss people approved a referendum (by a hair) allowing the country of Switzerland to seek membership in the United Nations. At the moment Switzerland sits alone at the table with the Vatican City as permanent observers but not members of the UN. (If you believe the comic books, Wonder Woman keeps the Swiss observer company as the observing representative of Themiscira, her paradisaic island home.) But permanency is not always so permanent anymore.
What can I say? I haven't been able to follow the issue really. My Swiitzer T��tsch isn't so good yet, nor is my historical, or mythical, knowledge of my home. But it is clear that the issue is an important and emotional one for the people here. Of course back where I'm from there's a whole contingent of folks who want to pull out of the same organization. Certainly at issue is how the millions of dollars of dues will be spent. (As the US paid their UN bill yet?) And isn't Switzerland's supposed to be neutral in all things? In Switzerland appearances are everything. It seems to me that the big concern all around is "What will people think now?" I don't think many US media outlets carried the news very high up. So, here is a summary (from Slate Magazine) of what the papers in Europe were thinking yesterday: One small step for the United Nations, a giant leap for Switzerland. Monday, March 04, 2002
I'M THINKING ABOUT IT: I have many thoughts on East meets West ... evil empires ... axises ... Mr. Gorbachev, bring this wall down ... and all of that. Maybe a posting or a longer Zurich Bericht will arise from it. And look for more details some time in a future link: So, you want to spend 24 hours in Berlin. Oh, I took pictures too. If I ever develop them, I'll show you some.
OH! I didn't tell you there were painted bears all over the city. Yep, Berlin has jumped on the Cow Wagon and brought an artistically decorated Bear Parade to town. I asked Swiss-family Roger:
"We started that trend, didn't we?" He pulled himself up proudly to correct me. "We?", he asked. "It all started with the Cow Parade in Z�rich." "That's what I meant", I answered, "why do you think I said, 'We'?"
Sunday: I took an easy train ride (all on the local pass) out to Postdam to check out the town and the really cool Film Museum. There's quite a cinematic history on display here from neighboring Brandenburg, the Hollywood of Germany and then East Germany. I saw a lot film clips and things that an American like me just wouldn't know.
Continuing yesterdays theme, there is a large and famous Cathedral in Potsdam (that has fallen into a little disrepair over the years it was in communist East Germany and later) and a marker for the once equally important Synagogue. The Synagogue was destroyed during the kristallnacht and later demolished entirely. After the trip to the museum on Saturday the plaque was now more to me than just a historical marker. It really came home that some folks really did try to empty the world of so many people and so much history - truly, truly horrible. I did try to discover the Tr�nen Palast again. And again it was closed. Next time, I promise.
THIS SUNNY SATURDAY: We got up as early as our night before allowed and treated our "inner Swiss" to a breakfast at the M�venpick cafe. Hey, were we staying on Swiss row? It was an easy walk from our Swiss�tel to a Bally's, a Credit Suisse, and a M�venpick. Next we took the number 100 Bus through town. That's a great little sightseeing trip for folks like us that are only in town for a day. The route takes you past everything you must say that you saw including (but definitely not limited to): the Siegess�ule, or Victory Tower, (end point of that tired grand-daddy of all street parades - the Love Parade), the Reichstag, the Brandenburger Tor, Dallas-ite Shawne Fielding's home at the Swiss Embassy, and the hunting grounds for kaisers called the Tiergarten (in the good-ole summer-time one can spot some yummy Berliners bare here, but not on March 2 with temps dipping pretty low). The tourist office near the bomb-ruined Kasier-Wilhelm Ged�chtniskirche (that's "Memorial Church" to you) sells a brochure that helpfully lists the things you should be paying attention to along the route.
After we went all the way to the end of the line - we came back a-ways. We left the bus and walked past the historically famous Check-Point Charlie to the brand new Jewish Museum. If you visit Berlin, that is a place not to miss. It needs it's own Bericht (that's "dispatch" to you). But for now I will say that Daniel Libeskind, the artist architect who designed the museum, created a building-sized walk-through piece of art commemorating the Jewish experience. Inside the museum there are several empty or void spaces that recall the void left in Europe and the world when Hitler and his gang of allies, conspirator's, collaborators, and blind-eyers systematically eradicated the Jewish people in Germany and other parts of Europe. The most moving part of the exhibit for me is the void space with the sculpture of "Fallen Leaves". The floor of the large void is covered in tens of thousands of rusted steel sculptures of flat faces. They become a tide of faces ready to wash over you as you stand there, except they have fallen where they lay and won't be getting up again. Marla and Roger, who only signed on for 24 hours, left around six in the evening. That left me free to indulge my baser urges for flame-broiled beefy goodness at Burger King - which is all over Berlin, but nowhere in Z�rich. After I scratched my "angry itch" on a Whopper Combo with Cheese (that's "k�se" to them), I checked out some of the seedier nightspots in the old East Berlin. I will say this: Berliners have it "goin' on" (or is it that they have it "gettin' on").
SCHWARTZENDRUBER DA: First off, I stayed at the yummy Swiss�tel. While I have my special issues with the thought, I think I always want to be Swiss (naturally, the lifestyle not the airline), if only for the special clean elegance. I went with friends Roger (that's pronounced gRojhay since he is Swiss) and Marla (that's pronounced MAR-la since she's American AND Swiss).
We started off with a whirlwind walking tour around the Ku'damm area. The first stops were for drinks and then for nice French food. For once I broke my tradition and didn't sample the Z�ri G'Schnatzlets. What's the point of ordering Swiss in a French Resturant? So, this time I started with escargot (first time since prom nite when I made my friend almost lose his supper talking about "slithering" over to his table), and finished with a delicious fish. Afterwards, we tried to take in the communist-architected customs clearing house called the Tr�nen Palast, or the Palace of Tears, on the border between the former East and West Berlin. Someone told Marcia and me, when we were in Berlin this summer, that now it�s a disco. Well, the jury is still out on what it is. It was closed when we arrived. But, whatever it is - it looks zuppa-geil (that's "super cool" to you). I'm guessing now it is a hip "performance space". Next time I'm in Berlin I will be sure to go ... and report back. Instead we ended up across the street at a trendy, well-lit place called Broker's. The beer prices are posted on a "big board", and they change every time someone orders a "share" of beer in order to reflect the going market price. Hey, it was a fun concept. Good for the owner too since the price on the most popular beers kept going up and up. It's a nice symbol of irony located here on what used to be the border between two ideologies. The "ticker" kept warning of the coming "b�senkrash" (stock market crash), which we were tipsily anticipating. But, it never came before we called it a night - schade (that's "a pity" to you).
HOME AGAIN: I just returned to Z�rich from Berlin. What a weekend! I should now link you to a travelogue link on my website. I'm not that fancy yet. So I will spew it all out in the next posts...
YEP, ANOTHER ONE: Well, I thought if andrewsullivan can blow hard all day, why o' why can't I? And naturlich it's still under construction. If that's good for the divalicious amygrant, then it's good for me!
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I've attempted to leave this blog in the state it was in early 2006 as a historical artifact, but Google broke my original Archive page. What you see above is a quick reconstruction to rebuild some archive functionality
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Original Contents Copyright 2002 - J. Stephen Holyer. All Rights Reserved.
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